Moringa Seeds/Pods Health Benefits

Moringa is called the Miracle Tree for good reason. Moringa leaves, pods, flowers, fruits, roots, bark, and Moringa seeds can all be utilized. It is estimated that at least 300 diseases can be cured by taking this supplement along with hundreds of other health benefits thanks to its more than 90 nutrients, 46 different antioxidants, and all 8 essential amino acids. Here is a more in-depth look at the health benefits of Moringa leaves and seeds.

Moringa is rich in many vitamins, including Vitamin A, several forms of Vitamin B, Vitamin C, Vitamin D and Vitamin E. In fact, it has more of these vitamins than a variety of foods that all claim to be excellent sources of them, such as carrots, oranges and milk. These vitamins provide a number of recognized health benefits.

Moringa leaves have a few specific benefits that must be touched on as well. Protein is a vital nutrient found in the leaves of this tree. There is twice as much calcium in Moringa leaves than in milk. Iron is found in large quantities in Moringa leaves as well. In fact, there is three times as much iron in this plant than in spinach. Along with these specific nutrients, the leaves can be consumed to stimulate your metabolism, thus aiding in weight loss. This is possible because Moringa provides energy without sugar. The leaves can also be used to beautify your skin, thus they are commonly taken as supplement by women looking for healthier skin.

Moringa seeds have a number of benefits specific to them as well. They contain iron, just like Moringa leaves, and they also contain amino acids along with anti-inflammatory and antiseptic properties. That means if you have minor injuries like bruises, cuts or burns, you will heal faster when you take Moringa supplements. Along with these specific health benefits, you can even put its seeds in dirty water and they will attract the impurities and make the water drinkable. They are often manufactured in perfumes and aromatherapy products because of the refreshing aroma they provide.

All of the amazing health benefits of Moringa leaves and seeds make them a regular in the diets of people who live where they grow in Asia, Africa and South America. As far as science is concerned, Moringa is a new find. As far as herbalists are concerned, this plant has been benefiting them for generations.

When seeds are crushed into a powder, they act as a natural flocculent which can be used to purify dirty water, eliminating between 90-99% of bacteria.
The Moringa seeds yield edible oil. Seeds cake, from the oil extraction, can be used in the same way. It has also potential to improve nutrition, boost food security, foster rural development, and support sustainable land care.

GROWING MORINGA SEEDS

Cultivation of moringa - Easy instructions
1. Find a sunny place. 2. Make square holes in the ground 30 to 60 cm deep 3. Fill the hole with loose ground 4. Plant the seed 1 cm deep 5.Give the ground some water but not too much, otherwise the seed may rotten. 6. Within 1-2 weeks the Miracle springs out the ground! :-)

Cultivation of moringa - Expert


Moringa oleifera is believed to be native to sub-Himalayan tracts of northern India but is now found worldwide in the tropics and sub-tropics. It grows best in direct sunlight under 500 meters altitude. It tolerates a wide range of soil conditions, but prefers a neutral to slightly acidic (pH. 6.3-7.0), well-drained sandy or loamy soil. Minimum annual rainfall requirements are estimated at 250mm with maximum at over 3,000mm, but in waterlogged soil the roots have a tendency to rot. (In areas with heavy rainfall, trees can be planted on small hills to encourage water run-off). Presence of a long taproot makes it resistant to periods of drought. Trees can be easily grown from seed or from cuttings. Temperature ranges are 25-35 degrees Celsius (0-95 degrees Fahrenheit), but the tree will tolerate up to 48 degrees in the shade and it can survive a light frost.

Moringa seeds have no dormancy period, so they can be planted as soon as they are mature and they will retain the ability to germinate for up to one year. Older seeds woll only have spotty germination. Moringa trees will flower and fruit annually and in some regions twice annually. During its first year, a Moringa tree will grow up to five meters in height and produce flowers and fruit. Left alone, the tree can eventually reach 12 meters in height with a trunk 30cm wide; however, the tree can be annually cut back to one meter from the ground. The tree will quickly recover and produce leaves and pods within easy reach. Within three years a tree will yield 400-600 pods annually and a mature tree can produce up to 1,600 pods. Copicing to the ground is also possible, and will produce a Moringa bush is no main new growth is selected, and the others eliminated.

IN THE NURSERY:
Use poly bags with dimensions of about 18cm or 8" in height and 12cm or 4-5" in diameter. The soil mixture for the sacks should be light, i.e. 3 parts soil to 1 part sand. Plant two or three seeds in each sack, one to two centimeters deep. Keep moist but not too wet. Germination will occur within 5 to 12 days, depending on the age of the seed and pre-treatment method used. Remove extra seedlings, leaving one in each sack. Seedlings can be out-planted when they are 60-90cm high. When out-planting, cut a hole in the bottom of the sack big enough to allow the roots to emerge. Be sure to retain the soil around the roots of the seedling. To encourage rapid germination, one of three pre-seeding treatments can be employed:
1. Soak the seeds in water overnight before planting.
2. Crack the shells before planting.
3. Remove shells and plant kernels only.

IN THE FIELD:
If planting a large plot it is recommended to first plough the land. Prior to planting a seed or seedling, dig a planting pit about 50cm in depth and the same in width. This planting hole serves to loosen the soil and helps to retain moisten in the root zone, enabling the seedlings’ roots to develop rapidly. Compost or manure at the rate of 5kg per pit can be mixed with the fresh topsoil around the pit and used to fill the pit. Avoid using the soil taken out of the pit for this purpose: fresh topsoil contains beneficial microbes that can promote more effective root growth. The day before out planting, water the filled pits or wait until a good rain before out-planting seedlings. Fill in the hole before transplanting the seedling. In areas of heavy rainfall, the soil can be shaped in the form of a mound to encourage drainage. Do not water heavily for the first few days. If the seedlings fall over, tie them to stick 40cm high for support.


DIRECT SEEDING:
If water is available for irrigation (i.e., in a backyard garden), trees can be seeded directly and grown anytime during the year. Prepare a planting pit first, water, and then fill in the pit with topsoil mixed with compost or manure before planting seeds. In a large field, trees can be seeded directly at the beginning of the wet season.


GROWING FROM CUTTINGS:
Use hard wood, not green wood, for cuttings. Cuttings should be 45cm to 1.5m long and 10cm thick. Cuttings can be planted directly or planted in sacks in the nursery. When planting directly, plant the cuttings in light, sandy soil. Plant one-third of the length in the ground (i.e., if the cutting is 1.5m long, plant it 50cm deep). Do not over water; if the soil is too heavy or wet, the roots may rot. When the cuttings are planted in the nursery, the root system isslow to develop. Add phosphorus to the soil if possible to encourage root development. Cuttings planted in a nursery can be out-planted after 2 or 3 months.


SPACING:
For intensive Moringa production, plant the tree every 3 meters in rows 3 meters apart. To ensure sufficient sunlight and airflow, it is also recommendedto plant the trees in an east-west direction. When the trees are part of an alley-cropping system, there should be 10 meters between the rows. The area between trees should be kept free of weeds.

Trees are often spaced in a line one meter or less apart in order to create living fence posts. Trees are also planted to provide support for climbing crops such as pole beans, although only mature trees should be used for this purpose since the vine growth can choke off the young tree. Moringa trees can be planted in gardens; the tree’s root system does not compete with other crops for surface nutrients and the light shade provided by the tree will be beneficial to those vegetables which are less tolerant to direct sunlight. From the second year onwards, Moringa can be inter-cropped with maize, sunflower and other field crops. Sunflower is particularly recommended for helping to control weed growth.[1] However, Moringa trees are reported to be highly competitive with eggplant (Solanum melongena) and sweet corn (Zea mays) and can reduce their yields by up to 50%.


PINCHING THE TERMINAL TIPS:
When the seedlings reach a height of 60cm in the main field, pinch (trim) the terminal growing tip 10cm from the top. This can be done using fingers since the terminal growth is tender, devoid of bark fiber and brittle, and therefore easily broken. A shears or knife blade can also be used. Secondary branches will begin appearing on the main stem below the cut about a week later. When they reach a length of 20cm, cut these back to 10cm. Use a sharp blade and make a slanting cut. Tertiary branches will appear, and these are also to be pinched in the same manner. This pinching, done four times before the flowers appear (when the tree is about three months old), will encourage the tree to become bushy and produce many pods within easy reach. Pinching helps the tree develop a strong production frame for maximizing the yield. If the pinching is not done, the tree has a tendency to shoot up vertically and grow tall, like a mast, with sparse flowers and few fruits found only at the very top.


For annual Moringa types, directly following the end of the harvest, cut the tree’s main trunk to about 90cm from ground level. About two weeks later 15 to 20 sprouts will appear below the cut. Allow only 4-5 robust branches to grow and nib the remaining sprouts while they are young, before they grow long and harden. Continue the same pinching process as done with new seedlings so as to make the tree bushy. After the second crop, the trees can be removed and new seedlings planted for maximum productivity.

For perennial Moringa types, remove only the dead and worn out branches every year. Once in four or five years, cut the tree back to one meter from ground level and allow re-growth. Complete copicing is


WATERING:
Moringa trees do not need much watering, which make them ideally suited for the climate of places such as Southern California. In very dry conditions, water regularly for the first two months and afterwards only when the tree is obviously suffering. Moringa trees will flower and produce pods whenever there is sufficient water available.

If rainfall is continuous throughout the year, Moringa trees will have a nearly continuous yield. In arid conditions, flowering can be induced through irrigation.


FERTILIZING:
Moringa trees will generally grow well without adding very much fertilizer. Manure or compost can be mixed with the soil used to fill the planting pits. Phosphorus can be added to encourage root development and nitrogen will encourage leaf canopy growth. In some parts of India, 15cm-deep ring trenches are dug about 10cm from the trees during the rainy season and filled with green leaves, manure and ash. These trenches are then covered with soil.

This approach is said to promote higher pod yields. Research done in India has also showed that applications of 7.5kg farmyard manure and 0.37kg ammonium sulfate per tree can increase pod yields threefold.[3]

Biodynamic composts yield the best results, with yield increases of of to 50% compared to ordinary composts.


PESTS AND DISEASES:
Moringa is resistant to most pests. In very water-logged conditions, Diplodia root rot can occur. In very wet conditions, seedlings can be planted in mounds so that excess water is drained off. Cattle, sheep, pigs and goats will eat Moringa seedlings, pods and leaves. Protect Moringa seedlings from livestock by installing a fence or by planting a living fence around the plantation. A living fence can be grown with Jatropha curcas, whose seeds also produce an oil good for soap-making. For mature trees, the lower branches can be cut off so that goats will not be able to reach the leaves and pods. Termites can be a problem, especially when cuttings are planted.

Among approaches recommended to protect seedlings from termite attack:

· Apply mulches of castor oil plant leaves, mahogany chips, tephrosia leaves or Persian lilac leaves around the base of the plants.

· Heap ashes around the base of seedlings.

· Dry and crush stems and leaves of lion's ear or Mexican poppy and spread the dust around the base of plants.

In India, various caterpillars are reported to cause defoliation unless controlled by spraying. The budworm Noordia moringae and the scale insects Diaspidotus sp. and Ceroplastodes cajani are reportedly able to cause serious damage. Also mentioned as pests in India are Aphis craccibora, the borer Diaxenopsis apomecynoides and the fruit fly Gitonia sp. Elsewhere in the world, where Moringa is an introduced tree, local pests are less numerous.

HARVESTING:
When harvesting pods for human consumption, harvest when the pods are still young (about 1cm in diameter) and snap easily. Older pods develop a tough exterior, but the white seeds and flesh remain edible until the ripening process begins.

When producing seed for planting or for oil extraction, allow the pods to dry and turn brown on the tree. In some cases, it may be necessary to prop up a branch that holds many pods to prevent it breaking off. Harvest the pods before they split open and seeds fall to the ground. Seeds can be stored in well-ventilated sacks in dry, shady places.

For making leaf sauces, harvest seedlings, growing tips or young leaves. Older leaves must be stripped from the tough and wiry stems. These older leaves are more suited to making dried leaf powder since the stems are removed in the pounding and sifting process.

The leaves, seeds, oil, flowers, bark, sap, roots, are used in traditional medicine in several countries.

Moringa seeds have several beneficial uses.

As Food
Moringa seeds can be eaten, either alone or along with the entire pod The seeds can be roasted and eaten like nuts. They can also be used in cooking the same way one would use peas or beans.

Oil
The seeds contain a high-quality oil which can be used for cooking and for lubrication.

Moringa Oil

Water purification
The Moringa seeds can be used to remove impurities from dirty water and help make it drinkable.

Houshold Water Purification

Large Scale - Water Purification
Water Softening
A study has found that the seeds not only can help purify water, but also soften it.

Fertilizer
The "seed cake" that is left over after crushing the seeds for oil extraction or water purification can then be used as a fertilizer.



COOKING THE PODS

Recipe Idea

When young, horseradish tree pods are edible whole, with a delicate flavor like asparagus. They can be used from the time they emerge from the flower cluster until they become too woody to snap easily (the largest ones usable in this way will probably be 12 to 15 inches long and 1/4 inch in diameter). At this stage, they can be prepared in many ways. Here are three:



Cut the pods into one-inch lengths. Add onion, butter, and salt. Boil for ten minutes or untiltender. Steam the pods without seasonings, and then marinade in a mixture of oil, vinegar, salt, pepper, garlic, and parsley.

Steam the pods without seasonings, and then marinade in a mixture of oil, vinegar, salt, pepper, garlic, and parsley

An acceptable mock asparagus soup can be made by boiling the pods and onion until tender. Add milk, thicken, and season to taste.

COOKING THE PEAS

The seeds (peas) can be used from the time they begin to form until they begin to turn yellow and their shells begin to harden. Only experience can tell you at what stage to harvest the pods for their peas. To open the pod, take it in both hands and twist with your thumbnail; slit open the pod along the line that appears. Remove the peas with their soft winged shells intact and as much soft white flesh as you can by scraping the inside of the pod with the side of a spoon. Place the peas and flesh in a strainer and wash well to remove the sticky, bitter film that coats them. (Or better still, blanch them for a few minutes, then pour off the water before boiling again in fresh water).

Now they are ready to use in any recipe you would use for green peas. They can be boiled as they are or, seasoned with onion, butter and salt, much the same as the leaves and young pods. They can be cooked with rice as you would any bean. In India, the peas are prepared using this recipe:

12-15 horseradish tree pods

1 medium onion, diced

4 cups grated coconut

2 bouillon cubes

2 inches ginger root

4 tablespoons oil or bacon grease

1 clove garlic

2 eggs, hard-boiled

salt and pepper to taste

Blanch both peas and pods, drain. Remove milk from 2-1/2 cups grated coconut by squeezing water through it two or three times. Crush ginger root and garlic, save half for later. Mix peas, flesh, coconut milk, ginger root and garlic together with onion, bouillon cubes, oil, salt and papper. Bring to a boil and cook until the peas are soft - about 20 minutes. Fry remaining half of crushed ginger root and garlic in 2 tablespoons of oil. Dice eggs. Add coconut, ginger, garlic and eggs to first mixture. Heat through. Serves